Let’s Talk About PIH: Why Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour Deserves More Than a Footnote

If you’ve ever been told to “just exfoliate” your dark spots away, I feel you.

As someone who’s walked both the patient and practitioner path, I’m here to say this loud and clear: PIH needs more clinical empathy, better education, and smarter solutions tailored for darker skin.

What Is PIH, Really?

In simple terms, PIH is the skin’s overreaction to trauma i.e. anything from a pimple to a scratch, insect bite, or chemical burn. The inflammation tells melanocytes (our pigment-producing cells) to go into overdrive resulting in flat, dark patches that stick around long after the initial flare-up has faded.

And if you’ve got medium to deep skin, the risk of developing PIH is higher and the journey to recovery is longer. Not because your skin is problematic but because the industry wasn’t built with you in mind.

Where the Industry Still Gets It Wrong

Too often, PIH in skin of colour is treated as an afterthought. Generic recommendations like strong peels, aggressive retinoids, or lasers are thrown around without a second thought to how trauma-triggered melanin behaves.

In fact, the harsh truth is that treatment without understanding the science of melanogenesis in darker skin can do more harm than good. I've seen patients walk into clinics looking for help with hyperpigmentation, only to leave with worsened PIH because their practitioner lacked proper training in treating skin of colour.

The Paradox of the Peel

Let’s clear something up: chemical peels can both trigger and treat PIH.

When done right, formulations like The Perfect Peel Superblend, enriched with glutathione and anti-inflammatories, can gently resurface the skin while actively calming pigment-producing cells. But it requires:

• Correct depth and acid blend

• Patient prep (hello SPF and pigment suppressors)

• Post-care that doesn’t end at the clinic door

Too many people skip straight to the “solution” without addressing the inflammation first and inflammation is the real villain here.

Ingredients That Work (Only If You’re Smart About Them)

There’s no miracle product, but there are evidence-backed heroes:

• Azelaic acid: Anti-inflammatory, pigment-suppressing, and great for sensitive skin.

• Niacinamide: One of my favourites. Calms the skin and regulates melanin transfer.

• Vitamin C: When stabilised, it brightens and protects.

• Retinoids: Yes, they work but not without a careful strategy. Speak to your dermat!

• Glutathione: A master antioxidant that’s particularly valuable for melanated skin under oxidative stress.

Hydroquinone? Still the gold standard in some cases, but it must be cycled and never used as a first resort for skin of colour. We’ve moved beyond bleach creams and onto smarter pigment control.

So, What Should You Do If You Have PIH?

1. See someone who understands your skin. Not all practitioners are trained in treating skin of colour. Ask the right questions.

2. Be patient and consistent. PIH doesn’t vanish overnight

3. Don’t skip sun protection. UV exposure worsens every type of hyperpigmentation, full stop.

Stop picking. I get it, but every squeeze is a fast-track ticket to a dark mark that lingers.

Here’s My Take

PIH is not a flaw. It’s your skin protecting itself.

But the fact that so many of us are left without answers or worse, harmed by misguided treatments is a problem. If the industry truly wants to serve all skin, then education around melanogenesis, barrier care, and pigment control in darker tones must become non-negotiable.

That’s why I formulate differently. Train differently. Treat differently.